The people make the place

I've had a hard time figuring out what to say about our time in Azerbaijan. Though a beautiful country with I'm sure plenty to entice a traveller to visit, for me it felt a little like a more built up and fenced off version of my beloved Georgia. Or at least it did until I … Continue reading The people make the place

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True North

I’ve been reluctant to write about my time living in Dawson City, Yukon, for a while now. This isn’t because I didn’t love it, and it isn’t because it wasn’t amazing. It’s more that it was normal to me. It was home. And that is a very hard thing to put into words. So it … Continue reading True North

The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Ten – It’s the Final Countdown

Distance so far: I ended this journey with roughly 6700km under my wheels. Repairs: Flat tire number three. And after a slight run-in with a motorbike, lets just say Bertha gave up on having functional gears and brakes. But a multispeed, extremely heavy bike doesn’t need gears or brakes, right? Right?   It’s been over … Continue reading The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Ten – It’s the Final Countdown

The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Nine – Conversations with Traffic

Distance so far: I sort of lost count, oops. I'm guestimating around 5600km. I'm tired just thinking of all that. Repairs: The easier question is what is still functioning. Does anyone really need both brakes? We also changed a flat on Bertha, which inevitably led to an audience and advice doled out in Vietnamese. Super … Continue reading The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Nine – Conversations with Traffic

The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Eight – The ladies meet some mountains

Distance so far: 4050 km Bike repairs: Brought the girls to Noah from Tiger Trails in Luang Prabang, where he magically got all 21 gears on both bikes working beautifully, and gave Bertha a makeover with some shiny new pedals, no cable ties necessary. Sophie bought a Laos style bike computer to replace mine that … Continue reading The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Eight – The ladies meet some mountains

The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Seven – Ladies VS. 762 Curves (and back again)

Distance so far: 3125 km Bike repairs: With a newly repaired inner piece of the pedals, Bertha is working like a dream. Except the slightly exploded pedal. The solution, foot massage on every pedal stroke. Gertrude's back wheel slipped into misalignment. Solution: actual real bike maintenance! We were so excited we photographed it! After a … Continue reading The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Seven – Ladies VS. 762 Curves (and back again)

The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Six – Bertha Flies Solo

Distance so far: 2946 km Bike repairs: Bertha's pedals have self destructed. My solution: ignore it until a bike shop appears, or I get stranded. Whichever comes first. It was inevitable, and yet came about so suddenly. The time arrived where our desires and priorities differed radically. The moment where our individual reasonings for this … Continue reading The Odyssey of Gertrude and Bertha: Part Six – Bertha Flies Solo